Cultivars available today are selections from formal and informal breeding programs, chance discoveries by various growers, or propagated from trees planted by pioneers which have survived for decades. Trees die in 2 to 3 years from repeated defoliation.Ĭultural control Resistant cultivars offer the best option for home gardeners and can be useful for commercial growers. Ultimately, many infected leaves are shed. Some infected leaves drop others remain throughout the growing season, gradually becoming dark brown and heavily coated with spores. Infected twigs occasionally are distorted, and a few fruit may show a reddish growth on the surface.
The puckered areas are brightly colored with reds and/or purples and may continue to develop a dusty white coating of spores. As leaves expand they become deformed, puckered, and thicker than normal. Symptoms The first visibly infected leaves are yellow to reddish and somewhat thickened and crisp in texture. Rainfall of 0.5 inch and wetness of 24 hours is needed for fruit infection. Fruit are susceptible after petal fall until air temperature remains above 61☏. Although infected, symptoms may not appear if temperatures rise and remain above 69☏. Maximum infection occurs when trees are wet for 2 days or more, a frequent occurrence west of the Cascade Range. Wetness from rain (or other factors) for over 12.5 hours is needed for leaf infection but only when the temperature is below 61☏ during the wet period. Defoliation from severe infections weakens trees to the point that, if not controlled, they may die in 2 to 3 years. Photosynthetic function of infected leaves is reduced, the leaf imports sugars, and the contents of non-structural carbohydrates and enzymes involved in their metabolism are similar to sink leaves. East of the Cascade Range, after the initial spring infection and the shedding of diseased leaves, no further evidence of the disease is visible. In wet seasons, the fungus continues to cause slight summer infection, particularly west of the Cascade Range. Maximum susceptibility is between bud break and petal fall. Slow growing shoots and leaves can be infected during cool and wet growing seasons. Infection occurs through bud scales in mid- to late winter just as buds begin to swell. Spores of this fungus overwinter on bark, twigs, and old infected leaves. If you could let me know your thoughts about the summer delight aprium (and whether it either needs a pollinizer, or can act as a pollinizer for my hollywood plum) would be much appreciated.Cause Taphrina deformans, a fungus. I’ve never grown stone fruits before, so I am at a loss for what is true!
Customer service at OGW said that the Summer Delight Aprium can pollinate the hollywood plum.
One source said that the hollywood plum needs a pollinizer that is another japanese plum. The information on the internet is so conflicting… some sources say that all three of the trees I bought are self fertile. Since you’ve grown Summer Delight Apriums, could you tell me if that is enough trees, or if I would need some other kind of pollenizer for it? (Or for any of the other trees?) I recently purchased my first three stone fruit trees! After agonizing over varieties, and reading many of the threads on this forum, I decided to go with Summer Delight Aprium, Autumn Rose Peach, and Hollywood Plum. Hi, I am a new novice fruit tree gardener.
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